Enchanting Persia: Journey Beyond Unknown

“If people are given the chance to experience life in more than one country, they will hate a little less. It’s not a miracle potion, but little by little you can solve problems in the basement of a country, not on the surface.” ~ Marjane Satrapi

There are some destinations that keep one captivated for decades! Iran is definitely one if not the best of those destinations. Seemingly forbidden for a long time, it’s a cradle of ancient civilization and a place of fascination that lies beyond the stereotypes that divide us!

And don’t take it from me! A person I deeply admire, Anthony Bourdain did a documentary on it in Parts Unknown. He was blown away by the hospitality and kindness of the people of Iran (take a look!). Now you too have an opportunity to experience it for yourself and have an unforgettable trip worth thousands of years!

Salam and welcome to the Islamic Republic of Iran, one of the friendliest countries on Earth! This jewel in Islam’s crown combines glorious architecture with a warm-hearted welcome. Land of fire, a journey of flavours, is one of nature — so many metaphors to describe the country!

Little understood and seldom visited by Western tourists, Iran can seem opaque and enigmatic with many preconceptions based on its confusion with the Arab world. A journey to Iran is a chance to peel away the layers of a serious image problem and see the home to one of the world’s oldest major civilizations, with historical and urban settlements dating back to 7000 BC and 2,500 years of Persian history alone. Leave your stereotype at home and you will experience a country desperate to be seen for what it is, rather than what it is perceived to be. Whether you’re travelling in cities like Esfahan or Tabriz, in the Zagros Mountains of central Iran or in the deserts around Kerman, the real Iran will be revealed!

It’s true that, in Iran, women have half of the rights men do. And yet 66 percent of students are women. ~ Marjane Satrapi

An essential stop on the Silk Road, the Persian Empire stretched from Greece to India and brought its famously tolerant culture — including early medicine — to a world mired in comparative medieval backwardness. Today’s Iran is still a place of bustling bazaars, glorious architecture and mountain villages with a young, friendly and open population. As long as you are not too attached to that glass of wine (curiously, Shiraz was invented here), a visit will take you beyond the rhetoric into one of the world’s truly great cultures.

If you are drawn to places where echoes of ancient civilizations resonate down through the ages, Iran could be your thing. Some of history’s biggest names — Cyrus and Darius, Alexander the Great, Genghis Khan — all left their mark here and the cities they conquered or over which they ruled are among the finest in a region rich with such storied ruins.

Formerly known as Persia, Iran illustrates its strength of spirit and unique past with an array of ancient temples and artworks, mosques, fortresses and striking monuments. With a warm, but not overbearing climate, you can bask in the sunshine and take in the multitude of different experiences this country has to offer. Iran is a treasure house for some of the most beautiful architecture on the planet!

The sublime, turquoise-tiled domes and minarets of Isfahan’s Naqsh-e Jahan (Imam) Square get so many appreciative gasps of wonder, and rightly so, but there are utterly magnificent rivals elsewhere, in Yazd and Shiraz among others. And it is not just the mosques — the palaces, gardens (everywhere, but Kashan really shines) and artfully conceived bridges and other public buildings all lend grace and beauty appreciated by every visitor.

For those who have grown up on an endless diet of images depicting Iran as a dark, dangerous place full of fundamentalist fanatics, discovering the real Iran is the most wonderful surprise. Before long you are asking yourself: how can somewhere supposedly depicted as so bad be so good? Sure, not every Iranian you meet is going to invite you around to dinner.

Yet offers to sit down for tea will be an everyday occurrence, and if you spend any time at all with Iranians, you will often find yourself invited to share a meal in someone’s home. Say yes whenever you can and through it, experience first-hand Iranian culture, ancient, sophisticated and warm. It is these experiences that will stay with you forever!

Discover Shiraz * Yazd * Isfahan * Tehran (via London and Doha on the way there and Vienna on the way back). You will need to plan for 2 weeks trip and the last week of May — the first week of June is the great time to go!

Where to go and what to do

• Explore one of the oldest cities of ancient Persia Shiraz, the city of poets home to the graves of Hafez and Saadi, both major pilgrimage sites for Iranians. It’s also home to splendid gardens, exquisite mosques and whispered echoes of ancient sophistication, the heartland of Persian culture for more than 2,500 years, synonymous with education, nightingales, poetry and wine (this last is currently prohibited). In spring the fragrance of flowers, especially orange tree blossoms fills up the air. Its numerous gardens are extraordinarily beautiful and eye-catching.
• Tour Karim Khan-e Zand Complex starting with Arge Karimkhan (Karim Khan Citadel), visit the Nazar garden, Vakil Bathhouse and Vakil mosque before entering the Vakil Bazaar through the courtyard of the mosque. Taste some carrot juice and Faloodeh (starch ice cream) at one of the most famous ice cream shops in Iran by the Arg-e Karimkhan.
• Saadi Shirazi (1210–1292) is internationally revered, then and even now by scholars. In fact, one of his poems is written on top of the main entrance of the United Nations in New York the words of which are as true today as they were nine centuries ago:

“Human beings are members of a whole, In creation of one essence and soul.

If one member is afflicted with pain, other members uneasy will remain.

If you have no sympathy for human pain, the name of human you cannot retain”.

~ Saadi

• Visit Masjed-e Nasir Al Molk (scroll down for pictures) or the “Pink Mosque”, one of the most beautiful Mosques in Iran with its spectacular rainbow of stained glass and a plethora of exquisite rose-colour tiles blanketing the ceiling and the impressive sight of sun rays passing through the colourful glass showering the Prayer Hall with hues of light.
• The octagonal Pars Museum inside Nazar Garden dates back to the Safavid dynasty time (1501–1736) built by the order of Karim Khan as one of his royal projects for the ordinary people of Shiraz.
• The next stop is the historic UNESCO World Heritage-listed Bagh-e Eram (Eram Garden), one of the most famous and beautiful Persian gardens in all of Iran said to be here since the 11th century. It was named after a legendary garden called Eram in southern Arabia and built to compete with Paradise. Discover why!
• Aramgah-e Hafez (Tomb of Hafez), this 14th-century Iranian folk hero is loved and revered to this day and almost every Iranian can quote his work, bending it to whichever social or political persuasion they subscribe to. There is no better place to understand Hafez’s place in the nation’s psyche than at his Tomb and the memorial Garden within which it is set.
• Sunset is the most popular time of day for Iranians to gather in the garden to pay their respects; some come to perform the Faal-e Hafez, a popular ritual in which a volume of Hafez’s works is opened randomly and the future interpreted therein.
• There is a Teahouse on the grounds where admirers sit to enjoy the recitations broadcast around the garden over a bowl of ash (noodle soup) or faludeh (a frozen sorbet made with thin starch noodles and rose water). Check it out!

Marvel at the ancient ruins of Persepolis and Pasargadae:

• UNESCO World Heritage-listed Persepolis (also called Takht-e Jamshid), one of the greatest successes of the ancient Achaemenes Empire (c. 550–330 BC) as well as its final demise. One of the great wonders of the ancient world, Persepolis embodies not just a grand architectural scheme but also a grand idea. Persepolis was the first capital of Fars, some 2,500 years ago that was eventually conquered by Alexander the Great’s army in 330 BC.
• Stop at Pasargadae, the original capital of the first great multi-cultural Achaemenid Persian Empire in Western Asia founded by Cyrus the Great in the 6th century BC. Curiously Alexander the Great ordered the restoration of Pasargadae and the Tomb of Cyrus the Great out of awe and respect for the Persian king.
• And you can’t miss Naqsh-e Rustam, the ancient Necropolis that houses the immense rock-cut Tombs of 4 Persian Kings that stand out as a magnificent example of ancient Persian architecture and art.

Meander through Yazd’s mud-brick old town:

• UNESCO World Heritage-listed Yazd is one of the most ancient continually-inhabited cities on Earth that somehow spared the devastations of the Mongols and miraculously escaped the grabby hands of modernization! With a unique architecture that is perhaps the most traditional Persian, the Old Town is a mesmerizing labyrinth of sun-dried mud-brick houses, with winding narrow lanes (kuches) zigzagging through the town. It’s extraordinarily well preserved by the dry climate, dominated by tall Badgirs (or Wind Catchers / Wind Towers), a unique ventilation system on the roof that makes the houses cooler during the hot summer days, that can be seen on nearly every rooftop. Inside the house directly below the wind tower is a small pool and the coming air gets cooled before being circulated around the house. The original Water Channels (underground aqueducts) that gather the water into Qanats (underground cisterns) are also still intact along with its aged yet still functional badgirs.
• The city amidst the immense desert was originally settled ~5,000 years ago by an unusual for its time mix of cultures. Located on a flat plain ringed by mountains in the heart of Iran, Yazd was a major stop, known for its silks and other fabrics, on the international caravan routes to Central Asia and India. Marco Polo visited Yazd in 1272 on his way to China and called it the “good and noble city”. In the course of history due to its distance from important capitals and its harsh natural surrounding, Yazd remained immune to major troops’ movements and destruction from wars, therefore it kept many of its traditions, city forms and architecture until recent times.
• During Genghis Khan’s invasion in the early 1200’s A.D., Yazd became a safe haven and home for many artists, intellectuals and scientists fleeing their war-ravaged cities around Persia. Always known for the quality of its silk and carpets, Yazd continues to be one of Iran’s industrial centers for textiles, adding to it a considerable ceramics and construction materials industry and unique confectionery and jewellery industries.
• Explore this first raw adobe city and the 2nd historical city in the world after Venice in Italy. The city of different cultures and religions with all inhabitants co-existing peacefully and harmoniously, Yazd warrants a lazy approach — rambling around the maze of historic lanes (referred to locally as Yazd’s ‘historical texture’), popping into random teahouses or pausing to work out calligraphic puzzles in the city’s exquisite tilework. With its winding lanes, the forest of badgirs and well preserved thatched (mud, straw, brick) houses with Persian architecture, the old town, is a “don’t miss” destination.
• Masjed-e Jame (also known as Friday Mosque) is one of the most splendid attractions in Yazd with its unique architecture featuring Pishtaq (tall entry portal) built in 1324–1364 on the site of a Sassanid Fire Temple.
• Next, visit the active Atashkadeh (Zoroastrian Fire Temple). Yazd is also an ancient centre of Zoroastrianism, considered the world’s first monotheistic religion. Seeking refuge from the invading Arabs, the Zoroastrians found a safe haven within Yazd’s fortified walls. Zoroastrians have always been populous in the city and presently roughly 10% of the town’s population adhere to this ancient religion. The sacred Flame at Yazd Atashkadeh is considered to be the symbol of the God of Light and makes this the most important Temple attracting adherents from all over the world.

• From here, you will proceed to the Yazd Tower of Silence (Zoroastrian’s Dakhmeh or Qaleh-ye Khamushan). According to a Zoroastrian tradition dating back over 3,000 years, once someone dies, their body can immediately be contaminated by demons and made impure. To prevent this infiltration, Zoroastrians purified the dead body by exposing it to the elements. Consequently, the bodies were arranged on the Towers in 3 concentric circles. Men were placed in the outer circle, women in the middle and children in the inner-most ring. The bodies were then left to slowly disintegrate and to be picked clean by the vultures. After the purification process, the bleached bones were placed by the priests in ossuaries near or inside the Towers. Ossuaries from these rituals have been discovered from the 4th and 5th centuries BC.
• Proceed to see the Tower of Dolat Abad, a jewel of the city with the tallest existing windcatcher in Iran.
• Check out the impressive 12th-14th City Walls of Yazd city and click a couple of photos, as you drive by.

“Water is a desert’s gold.” ~ Matshona Dhliwayo

• Visit the unique Yazd Water Museum located in a restored Mansion with a visible Qanat running underneath. More than 3,000 years ago Persians learned how to construct underground aqueducts to bring water from the mountains to the plains. In the 1960s this ancient system still provided more than 70 percent of the water used in Iran. Yazd is famous for its Qanats (underground cisterns) and this museum, one of the best of its kind, is devoted to the brave men who built them. Qanats run through many of the wealthy old houses in Yazd, collecting water in pools in the basements known as sardob. The qanats are the reason why the wealthiest districts are always closest to the mountains — to be closest to the freshest water. As the coolest part of the house, these rooms were often beautifully decorated. The Museum offers a fascinating glimpse into the hidden world of waterways and Iran’s unique Irrigation System that has allowed life to flourish in the desert. Not to mention Water Distribution Clocks (precursor of the Water Meters we use today that were created 2,000 years ahead of us) to mark out the 15–20 minutes shares of water purchasable by householders or farmers.
• Definitely worth a visit, stop at one of the 12 historic Bazaars. The most important ones are Bazaar-e Khan, Goldsmiths Bazaar, and Panjeh Ali Bazaar. The Bazaars are the best places in Iran to buy silk, cashmere, brocades and cloth (taffeta and Yazdi shawl) with all the beautiful local designs, motifs, colours, the products that brought the town its prosperity since the time of the legendary Silk Route. Yazd is also known for cakes and sweets (baghlava, qottab, pashmak), although not all tempting delicacies on display are made in town.
• And now for a very special treat! Traditional Persian Night is bound to make it one of the most memorable nights on the trip and very likely of your life! Become a guest of a family in their home, listen to Iran’s traditional music and poetry of a legendary poet who had revitalized the Persian language and culture. Your passionate hosts will recite ancient poems from the “Book of Kings”, taking you back to Iran’s past on the journey of its renowned hero. You will have an opportunity to get to know your new Iranian friends and other guests and experience firsthand Iranian famous hospitality and all the excitement of preparing a feast for their guests following the honourable hosting tradition. You will share a sumptuous meal showcasing authentic Persian cuisine of vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes followed, of course, by the famous Yazdi Cake and tea with citrus Aurantium flavour.
• Continue to Isfahan. There are a couple of stops on the way from Yazd that you don’t want to miss: the first is the stunning Zein-o-din Caravanserai situated on the ancient Silk Road dating back to the 16th century. It is one of 999 roadside inns built during the reign of Shah Abbas I where travellers and their caravans used to spend the night after a hard day’s camel journey to rest, meet other travellers and trade some goods. Located in the heart of the deserts of Yazd, a short distance from the city (in those days 60 km meant 2 full days of travel), this historical caravanserai has been renovated, keeping most of the original features and providing unique accommodation options for today’s travellers. Enjoy a sumptuous Lunch buffet before driving on.
• Stop at Na’in, a more than 2,000 years old pre-Islamic town on the edge of the Central Desert and one of the best places in the entire world to see the functioning Qanats. Unique to Na’in are some of the most marvelous monuments of Iran: the Jame Mosque from the 8th century is one of the first four mosques built in Iran after the Arab invasion; the pre-Islamic Narenj Fortress; the Pirnia traditional house; the Old Bazaar; Rigareh, a qanat-based watermill and a Zurkhaneh (a place for traditional sport).

• Arrive in Isfahan, Iran’s top tourist destination and for good reason! Four hundred years ago, Isfahan was larger than London, more cosmopolitan than Paris and grander, by some accounts, than even storied Istanbul. Elegant bridges crossed its modest river, lavishly outfitted polo players dashed across the world’s largest square and hundreds of domes and minarets punctuated the skyline. Europeans, Turks, Indians and Chinese flocked to the glittering Persian court, the center of a vast empire stretching from the Euphrates River in what is today Iraq to the Oxus River in Afghanistan.
• Isfahan’s history is an epic cycle of fabulous boom and calamitous bust. Ancient Persia’s crossroads between West and East and a path connecting the Caspian Sea to the north with the Persian Gulf to the south made the city a destination for merchants, pilgrims and armies who passed through. Made into the capital of Persia under the reign of Shah Abbas I, the greatest ruler of the Safavid Empire (1501–1722 A.D.), Isfahan rose again. Cruel as Russia’s Ivan the Terrible, canny as England’s Elizabeth I and extravagant as Philip II of Spain (all contemporaries), Abbas made Isfahan his showplace, transforming the provincial city into a global metropolis with Armenian merchants and artisans, Catholic monks, Protestant traders, and Jewish and Zoroastrian communities that had lived here for centuries. Most remarkably, Abbas sought to establish Isfahan as the political capital of the first Shiite empire, bringing learned theologians from Lebanon to bolster the city’s religious institutions — a move begun by his predecessors that would have profound consequences for world history.

• The arts thrived in the new capital; miniaturists, carpet weavers, jewellers and potters turned out ornate wares that enhanced the Mansions and Palaces springing up along spacious avenues. Mosques, Palaces, Bazaars and public Parks were built under the Monarch’s personal supervision for over 30 years. Its profusion of tree-lined boulevards, Persian gardens and important Islamic buildings gives it a visual appeal unmatched by any other Iranian city and the many artisans working here underpin its reputation as a living museum of traditional culture.
• Start at the beautiful Chehel Sotuni Palace, with its exquisite collection of frescos and paintings on tile, and walk to the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Palace’s Garden, Bagh-e Chehel Sotun, which is an excellent example of the classic Persian garden.
• Walk through the huge UNESCO World Heritage-listed Naqsh-e Jahan Square which in Farsi means “The image of the world” and is also called the Maidan, formerly the economic and political heart of a prosperous and largely peaceful empire that drew foreigners from around the world. Ali Qapu Palace — the residence of Shah Abbas, and two mosques Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque and Shah (Imam) Mosque are open to visitors to enjoy. Through Qeisarie Gate you can enter Bazaar and have lunch in one of the traditional restaurants.

• See Masjed-e Jameh, whose construction started in the 8th century CE with the whole of the complex constructed in stages with the finely detailed stucco work around the Mihrab (niche) belonging to Ale’Buye in the 11th century.
• Don’t forget to walk across the Square through the picturesque historical Khaju Bridge, constructed by Shah Abbas II in 1650 and pause for lunch in the Armenian Quarter.
• Next, the journey takes you to Kashan, a delightful oasis city on the edge of the Dasht-e Kavir desert (or ‘salty lowlands’), admire the brilliantly coloured carpets, the famous Bagh-e Fin (Fin Garden), the grand Mansions and the Bazaar. King Shah Abbas I was so enamoured with Kashan that he insisted on being buried here rather than in Isfahan. Other historical figures of note who are associated with the town include Abu Musa al-Ashari, a soldier and companion of the Prophet Mohammed whose army took the town in the 7th century AD. Legend has it that his troops tossed thousands of scorpions from the surrounding desert over the city walls, causing the terrified Kashanis to capitulate.

• Continue to Qom (pronounced Ghom), the 2nd holiest city (after Mashhad) in Iran and the entire Middle East as it’s a religious center for Shias worldwide where some of the Leaders of the Islamic Revolution reside and are buried. Locals are conspicuously pious and travellers are reminded of the need to be mindful of the city’s religious nature when visiting.
• And finally, Iran’s capital Tehran: Hugging the lower slopes of the magnificent, snow-capped Alborz Mountains, Tehran is Iran’s most secular and liberal city that attracts students from across the country. Expect relatively bold fashion statements and a range of ethnic and international restaurants. This is the nation’s dynamic beating heart, the place to get a handle on modern Iran and what its future will likely be. But to get inside the real Tehran you need to get beyond the Museums and into the contemporary chic cafes, traditional teahouses, art galleries and walking trails in the mountains. That is where you will be able to connect with Tehranis and enjoy all that is good about Tehran!

Here are carefully chosen highlights to make your stay in Tehran special:

• The first stop is the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Golestan Palace complex made up of several grand buildings set around a carefully manicured garden and a monument to the glories and excesses of the Qajar rulers.
• Negar Khane art gallery displays a fine collection of Qajar-era art, dazzling Talar-e Ayaheh (Hall of Mirrors) museum, closed for almost 30 years, is now open to the public; the imposing Shams-Al Emarat (edifice of the Sun) blends European and Persian architectural traditions. Inside, a sequence of mirrored and tiled rooms house a collection of photographs, together with furniture and vases gifted by European Monarchs. The Azadi Tower, completed in 1971, greets visitors at the western entrance to the city, which has come to symbolize the city itself.

• The Palace tour finishes and you will walk out into the bustling ‘real world’ vibrant Bazaar and continue on to the National Jewels Museum (if open, as it was temporarily closed due to COVID) originally the Iran Crown Jewels, which houses royal jewelry and historical objects from ancient to modern times. On display is an impressive collection of some of the most famous and spectacular jewels in the world including many priceless pieces representing the history and art of Persia! Many pieces have disappeared over time but the remaining collection of gemstones, jewelry, royal emblems, ornamental guns and jewel-encrusted furniture is still impressive including the famous Peacock Throne (Takht-e Tavoos).
• Bridges have always been close to the heart of Iranian identity and they are more than just a walkway over a river or highway. See the modern architectural marvel, the Tabiat (“nature”) Bridge, the largest of its kind in Iran. Supported by 3 large pillars, the 270 metres curved structure has broad entrances, multiple pathways and 3 floors of restaurants, cafes and sitting areas. The walkway connects Park-e Taleghani and Park-e Abo-Atash, spanning over the busy Modarres Expwy, one of the main highways in northern Tehran.
• It’s here, in Tehran where this wonderful experience comes to an end, but it’s not a good buy as I will see you on our next adventure!

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If you like this post and thinking of joining the group for our next available dates May 23 — June 4, 2022 (13 Days | 11 Nights in Iran) or would like to pick your own, please let me know! We teamed up with The Journeys, a certified tour operator that offers trips across the Americas, Europe, Africa and Asia and has been in the business for 20+ years to create this special program for you!

Send me an email to juliamudla@gmail.com with your name and email address so that I can send you the detailed itinerary and answer any questions you may have. As US and Canadian citizens need visas to travel to Iran, make your decision today!

I look forward to hearing back from you about this and other destinations you would like to explore!

Julia